On Line

You can e-mail us at
info@n16mag.com

In this issue

Cover image
The Fringe...
...the Festival
Martin Rowson
News in Brief
Readers Letters
Park Life
News in Brief
Dissent
Tapas Time
Back to the Fringe
Straight to the Point
Royal Bengal
Handy Contacts
Summertime Blues
Summery Justice
Up the Junction
Books/Poetry
The Factory
Summer Allergies
Farmers Market
The Arts
Away Days
A Royal Visit
Coffee Corner
Surfing N16
Man in North Bank
XWord
View from the Lane

Advertisers

Page by Page
1 - 2 - 3 - 4 - 5
6 - 7 - 8 - 9 - 10
11 - 12 - 13 - 14 -15
16 - 17 - 18 - 19 - 20
21 - 22 - 23 - 24 - 25
26 - 27 - 28 - 29 -30
31 - 32 - 33 - 34 - 35
36 - 37 - 38 - 39 - 40

N16 Editions

Issue 15
Issue 16
Issue 15
Issue 14
Issue 13
Issue 12
Issue 11
Issue 10
Issue 9
Issue 8
Issue 7
Issue 6
Issue 5
Issue 4
Issue 3
Issue 2
Issue 1

OnLine Edition
Designed by
The N16 WebWorks

p9

tapas time

by Saskia Little-Brown

Long a fixture on Church Street, the Blue Legume cafe and patisserie is quietly demonstrating that change can sometimes be for the much better.

When Murat acquired the Legume from its original owners, nervous regulars – Legumies? Root Crops? – were quickly reassured to discover that the ambience (and, more importantly, the menu) was to be gently and creatively enhanced rather than savagely overhauled or – worse – ‘rethemed’ to within an inch of its life. Same preoccupations – original twists on old favourites, imaginative use of quality ingredients, comfort food for the Sunday brunch regulars and room for the baby buggy – and same commitment to a manageable range of affordable, well presented dishes.

Change came slowly. First, the elegant and spacious conservatory to the rear, usefully smoke-free if that’s your particular requirement, and then, a couple of months ago, the extension of the BL’s evening opening hours and the addition of a wondrous tapas menu. As a (newish and frequent) regular, I’ve dragged The Husband Legume-wards on numerous occasions in recent weeks to experience the unanticipated side-effects of global warming in Stoke Newington, and to avoid the washing up. I get the opportunity to people-watch from a prime pavement location – a hobby I have elevated into an art-form – while The Husband probably manages to sneak in an extra glass of perfectly respectable vino as I wonder at the summer plumage of Stokey passers-by.

And, of course, there’s the food. Murat’s diligence in sourcing ingredients means that the menu changes from time to time – he can’t find the anchovies he wants at the moment, for example, so they’ll be off next time you visit, I imagine – but the Albondigas con tomate (meatballs to you and me) are munchsome, the Espinacas (spinach with yoghurt) is appropriately tart (unlike moi), and my personal favourite, Croquetas de pollo y pimienta (chicken croquettes) a delight. I even managed to persuade The Husband – who’s tried to justify his aversion to fresh vegetables by some dubious reference to his Scottish heritage – that the lettuce hearts in a beautifully simple vinaigrette (Cogollos, if you’re up to speed on the Spanish) were almost as nutritious as deep-fried Mars bars. He ate them with relish, anyway, which is more than I can persuade him to do at Chateau Little-Brown.

On the drinks front, a small but perfectly formed selection of wines, including two organic varietals, soft drinks (including delicious presses and organic lemonade), excellent proper coffee – or a jug of sangria if you want to recapture that Costa del Crime moment (assuming you can remember it).

Good prices, excellent food - why am I even telling you about it ? If I can’t claim my favourite table the next time I visit, I’ve only myself to blame. Or The Husband.

101 Stoke Newington Church St,
N16 0UD, tel : 020 7923 1303

next page