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Foxs Wine Bar, now the Fox Reformed, has gone through several
incarnations since Robbie and Carol Richards bought a derelict site in1980. The most
notable of these guises was 'La Fin de la Chasse' in 1985, an oasis in the gastronomic
desert of Stoke Newington. Concentrating on provincial French food and reasonably priced
French wine, they created an authentic and popular bistro.
Due to the financial climate and the change in licensing laws in the early nineties, they
decided to change the format back to a wine bar. A smart move, as it was still very
difficult to have a decent glass of wine and a snack in Church Street, despite the
improving standards in the pubs.
A wine bar differs from a brasserie in emphasis. Wine bars are drinking places where food
is served, brasseries are eating places where wine is served and are more restricted by
the licensing laws.
The Fox Reformed embodies the best attractions of wine bars: the informality, the freedom
to saunter in and have a glass of wine or an interesting beer, a bowl of olives and a chat
with people you know or have never set eyes on. That is something pubs rarely provide and
restaurants never.
The wine bar has a cosy if somewhat cramped interior, largely due to its popularity and
the profusion of backgammon tables.
It's advisable to book a table if you want to eat in the evening. There is a pretty garden
with lots of climbing plants and a couple of parasol gas heaters. During the day it is
quiet and is the perfect place to have a BLT (£3.75) or a steak and onion sandwich
(£4.50) with a Budvar (£2.30) or Hoegarden beer (£2.35). Traditional Sunday lunch is
£7.95.
On the evening we visited, there was a very good buzz. An informal wine tasting was going
on just inside the door, a regular activity of FRILLS (the Fox Reformed Imbibing and Low
Life Society), a drinking and dining club (membership £30). The perks of membership
include a 10 per cent discount on bottles of wine and, for the more cerebral boozer, a
monthly book club. Books are discussed over a bottle of wine, of course.
The food is simple and well executed. Daily specials that evening included lamb steak with
rosemary (£9.25), calves liver with black grape and onion confit (£9.75) and swordfish
with roquette in mango salsa (£9.75). My friends had plates of English asparagus with
shaved parinesan, nicely cooked, and not too al. dente, a very irritating modem fashion.
The piece de resistance of the evening was the swordfish, a very decent sized steak with a
nice mound of mango and tomato salsa: an unlikely combination perhaps, but a successful
collision of tang and texture.
The calves liver was a generous size and well cooked, maybe with a little too much sauce.
However this was easily mopped up with with a selection of vegetables and potatoes that
arrived with all the main courses.
The French-orientated wine list included a few well-chosen world wines. Being a confirmed
Francophile, 1 decided to branch out and opt for the Californian Sauvignon Geyser Park (£
13.95) which was dry, crisp and full of fruit. We also tried the Rioja (£12.95) which was
superb. The wine list is undoubtedly the best in Stoke Newington and includes a selection
of half bottles, all French and excellent value.
Beer drinkers are well catered for, with Stella on draught and bottled beers ranging from
Budvar (£2.30) to Chimay Red (£3.25).
Most dishes are daily specials from the blackboard. Standards on the small a la carte menu
include smoked haddock in tarragon cream (£4.55) and creme brulee (£3.25) which, we were
reliably informed, is not to be missed.
The Fox Reformed is a warm, eccentric little place guaranteed to lift your spirits.
The Fox Reformed
176 Stoke Newington Church Street London NI 6 05L Fax and Phone 020 7254 5975 Open noon-
midnight daily Lunch served 12.002.30pm Dinner 6.00-10.30 daily Average price for dinner
£17.50 House wine £8.75 (bottle) £2.35 (glass) Parties catered for. |
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