Aficionados will already know that autumn is a prime season for wild mushrooms. There are several thousand species of wild mushroom across Europe, of which about a quarter are actually edible but only a few of these are sought after for their taste and texture. Wild mushrooms (funghi) are in fact parasites, taking nutrients from living, dead or decaying matter such as leaves or wood or from the floor of the field and forest. All mushrooms develop in relationship with particular trees, have the same basic structure and propagate by means of spores. It is the way in which they distribute their spores that separates them into different groups.

BASIDIOMYCETES distribute their spores in passing air currents. To do this, they must grow at least a short distance above the ground. They are a conventional, mushroom - shaped shape, with a more or less convex cap and a central stem. Beneath the cap are surfaces which may have either flat or vertical plates known as Gills or Tubulars that end in openings known as spores. The former structure identifies the genera Agricales and the latter is characteristic of the genera Boletales. The delicate aroma of apricots and the wonderful golden colour make the Chanterelle (Agricales) one of the most popular, edible wild mushrooms. It is a fairly common mushroom, especially in Scotland, and is found in mixed woods, often among moss. Boletus Edulis, e.g. the Cep mushroom (Boletales), is another highly regarded wild mushroom that grows in grass on or near mixed woodland.

ASCOMYCETES has neither gills nor tubes but mostly develops spores in a sack in the upper level of the cap from where they are ejected at maturity. Some mushrooms in this group are much sought after and therefore command a high price on world markets.
The Morel, a prized member of this family, prefers sandy soil with underlying chalk and can be found in shrubby woodland, and on banks in pastures, orchards and on burnt ground.

The mystical Truffle, the most famous member of this group, has neither cap nor stem but a potato-like body that develops underground as a parasite of certain trees.
The intense aroma of ripe spores lures animals to the location of the mushroom, which they eat, dispensing the spores through their faeces. Female pigs are natural truffle hunters, as truffles contain a certain chemical resembling the male pig's sex hormone, but as their natural inclination is to eat the entire Truf?e, pigs have now largely been replaced by trained dogs. Most mushrooms consist of 90% water and contain various minerals and vitamins. The nutritional value of mushrooms is the low calorie content, the low fat content and the protein content. The unique aromatic quality of the mushroom and the varied textures makes it an excellent ingredient for cooking.

How to buy, store and prepare mushrooms 
Mushrooms should be crisp, not withered in any way, should not have a 'high' smell, nor should they be slimy. They should be stored unwashed in a paper bag in a cool place. They should be used as quickly as possible, before they get soggy. Brush away the dirt on the mushroom with a damp cloth and cut off the woody parts of the stalk.

Only Morels need to be washed, as they have soil and grit in their tubers. Run cold water over them and dry them with kitchen paper. Mushrooms should be cooked and eaten while still very fresh, as proteins in the mushroom degenerate quickly.

Dried mushrooms need to be soaked in hot water for 15 - 30 minutes or until they are soft. Lift them out of the water and cut off any tough stalks. Strain the liquid and use it for stock or when required in a recipe.

MUSHROOM RECIPES

Roasted Field Mushroom with Tomato and Buffalo Mozzarella (Ruth Arendse )

Remove the stalks from four large field mushroom caps. Chop them up together with four vine tomatoes, one clove of garlic and a few leaves of basil. Put the caps on a greased baking tray and return the chopped mixture to the caps. Pour over olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Bake in the oven for 8-10 minutes, gas mark 6 or 200 C /400 F. Cut one buffalo mozzarella into four pieces. Remove the mushrooms from the oven and place
a piece of mozzarella on each capped filling. Place under a hot grill until the cheese lightly melts. Sautée some chard or spinach in butter. Serve the field mushroom on the sautéed greens and sprinkle over some toasted pine nuts.

Morels (Jane Grigson )
Fresh Morels are a springtime delicacy. Their ideal partner is cream. Cook them briefly in butter, then add cream or a cream sauce and complete the cooking. Serve the mushroom mixture in a pastry case or as a sauce.

Fantasy in Black and White ( Antonio Carluccio )
2 Tubar Magnatum ( White Alba Truffles )
2 Tubar Melanosrorum (Black Truffles)
2 tsp. Armagnac
50g / 2oz./ 4 tsp. butter
salt & pepper to taste
4 slices of white bread for toasting parsley for garnish

Cut the truffles very thinly. Place in a bowl and marinate for one hour with the armagnac. Melt the butter in a pan over a moderate heat. Do not let it brown. Add the truffles and armagnac, salt and pepper to taste. Cover and allow to simmer for 4 - 5 minutes.
Arrange slices of black and white truffle alternatively on each piece of toast. Decorate with a sprig of parsley.

A wonderful selection of wild mushrooms can be bought from The Wild Mushroom Company at Borough Market London SE1
9AD.