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N16 first reviewed the Barracuda nearly five years ago - yes, we are that old - and, when we heard that the owner Mr Teng had introduced some new main courses, we felt it was about time we revisited it. 

I write this piece with a heavy heart because, as much as I like Teng, I don't want my favourite N16 venue to be packed with Stokey hoi polloi and Essex nouveau riche. Temptation was at hand, a stinker of a piece loomed, the knife had been sharpened, but conscience, in the form of a tasty meal washed down with excellent wines, prevailed - damn it. 

For starters, we went for the old favourites: Sea Empress, grilled scallops with sweet chilli sauce and creme fraiche; and Paper Prawns, king prawns wrapped in filo with a sweet chilli dipping sauce. By the way, Teng's is the only place in London to serve paper prawns. The starters were brilliant, but we knew that 'cause we've had them many times. We're probably spoilt.

For mains, we went for the Steamed Sea Bass in ginger, garlic oil and coriander served with fragrant rice, and the Oriental Duck, roast duck breast marinated in five spices with a lingonberry marmalade served with mashed potatoes. My duck was cooked as it should be - crispy on the outside and pink in the center - and, for sure, my mashed potatoes did not come out of a packet. In the past, I have been prejudiced about steamed sea bass, as I've always thought it over-hyped and overrated. But, this was special - juicy and bursting with many flavours.

Other interesting mains include Red Curry Pumpkin with Chickpeas; the hot Fisherman's Pot, salmon chunks, king prawns, mussels and squid in a rich green curry sauce; Strawberry Salmon, pan-grilled salmon fillet pieces in a strawberry coulis; and Chicken Breast in a mango and lemon sauce. 

Desserts took the form of the Barracuda's famous Pecan Pie and real ice cream, a scoop each of vanilla, bitter chocolate and ginger and honey, followed by coffee. Starters and Mains were washed down with an Alto Agnelo Malbec (2002), Mendoza, Argentina - a red with a spicy bouquet, a big body and a long aftertaste. Desserts were helped on their way with a Pomino, Vin Santodel Chianti (1996). I usually avoid dessert wines as they make me want to throw up. This particular offering had a rich herbal bouquet with only a hint of sweetness and a lingering finish. Teng has a comprehensive, but solid, wine list to suit every pocket from around £10 to £20 a bottle. There is a good house champagne and a wide selection of spirits, and Thai and Chinese beers.

The ambience in the Barracuda is special. It is unusual, but relaxing. The restaurant/wine bar is split between upstairs and the basement, which is available for, and is an excellent location for, private parties. From time to time, there is live jazz - well-known jazz musicians have been known to drop in and jam - and, on most Friday nights, Professor Miller holds court on the keyboards. In the summer, the balcony and peaceful Chinese-style garden are open for customers. One gripe - when will Teng fix that bloody door! We both felt that our visit was worth the effort and, err, we'll be back again.

125 Stoke Newington Church
Street, 0207 275 0400

Pies, Bangers and Mash

By Trevor Jones

The Daniel Defoe has always been run by Mandy and Alan as a no-nonsense pub at the heart of Church Street. It has had several reincarnations over the years and has now metamorphosed into one of the best pubs in Stokey.

The pub food is top notch and wholesome. There is a mouthwatering selection of traditional pies, including steak and ale, steak and Guinness, mixed game, and venison and wild mushrooms, and one modern dish - vegetarian pie.

The Daniel Defoe's other speciality is bangers and mash. We are not talking supermarket 20 percent meat (if you're lucky) and loads of e numbers, but bangers your great grandparents would recognise.

Diners have a choice of wild boar and apple, pork and leek, pheasant and tarragon, lamb and mint, and one your great grandparents wouldn't recognise - 'veggie' bangers. There is a wide selection of lite bites, and other dishes like succulent Scottish steaks. On Sundays, they also do Sunday roasts, and chefs Janet and Wahid produce two specials on a daily basis. I tried their risotto with wild mushrooms, which was both tasty and a snip at £5.95. They are also introducing a Friday special traditional fish and chips for two people with a bottle of house red or white wine for a measly £15.

The Daniel Defoe also has an excellent wine selection in the £10 - £13 a bottle range, including a peppery South African Pinotage, a Big River Shiraz and Santo Rosa Chenin. I'm happy to say that they serve their white wines as they should be served - very cold. For non-wine drinkers, there are real ales including the house Defoe Ale and a good selection of malt whiskies. What more doyou want from a pub?

85 Church Street, N16