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We are in one of Stokey’s favourite cafes. It’s a well-run,
quiet, immaculately clean place, with a cheerful, laid-back owner and friendly clientele. Recently,
two guys claiming to be Health and Safety officers from Hackney Council rudely interrupted one
of our contributor ’s Saturday morning routine of reading the paper over coffee and toast with
marmite. These ‘officials’ tried to prevent the owner from going behind his own counter, and acted
in an inappropriate and less than friendly manner. They said they wanted to take a photo of behind
the counter. They only desisted and left when challenged by the customers, who are all prepared
to act as witnesses. When asked, they failed to produce ID or even a business card.
N16 fully supports the regulation of Stokey’s numerous restaurants, cafes and bars. It is in everyone’s
interest to eat fresh food in a hygienic environment, and staff have the right to work in
safe conditions and be paid the proper rate for the job. But there is a fine line between
regulation as a means to an end and regulation as an end in itself.
We asked Hackney Council to comment on their Environmental Health Department’s policy on
Stokey. The Council claims that inspections in Stokey are ‘part of ongoing inspections’ in
the Borough. They say that all inspectors are full-time Council
officers although ‘some low- risk inspections’ were carried out in
the past by outside contractors. Hackney Council went on to say ‘All council officers carry
ID, but it was not necessary, in this case, to produce it as one of the
officers was known to the restaurant’. Furthermore, ‘the Council is pursuing legal action’
and it was ‘a serious thing they were investigating’. N16 would not dispute the Council’s legal
obligation to maintain health and safety regulations in restaurants, bars and cafes. But, one has to
wonder whether the law is being enforced even-handedly on all local businesses and, in some
cases, is a sledgehammer being used to crack a nut?
No sooner do we review somewhere, but it changes. The Barracuda has introduced
a completely new menu. Teng, the owner, has brought in Ethel Minogue, former N16 Magazine
food critic, as the head chef and redecorated the restaurant. Ethel opened Minogues Bar in Islington
in the 1980s and was a design and catering consultant for gastro pubs. She was also a BBC TV chef
and has published several books including a BBC Taste of Health publication, The Salad Garden
with Joy Larckon and Traditional and Irish Cooking. With those credentials, the Barracuda looks
very promising…
We know it’s a bit trite to say anything along the lines of ‘restores your faith in humanity’
but children selling their toys on Church Street on a windy Saturday so they can send the
profits to victims of the tsunami is undoubtedly a heartwarming story. The residents of N16
have been busy in this area with lots of local activities organised to raise funds. Yum
Yum held an afternoon of food and entertainment on 23 January (see picture opposite) which was
a roaring success and raised a good deal of money. The bring and buy sale at St Mary’s
Church on Saturday 12 February organised by Kate Simmons in conjunction with Brooks Estates
succeeded in raising a brilliant total of £824 with additional funds still to come from the remaining
items that were donated to Oxfam. Also, Rarely Groove held a Benefit Party in aid of the
Unicef Asia Tsunami Children’s Emergency Appeal on Saturday 26 February at the Mildmay Club.
Congratulations to them and to everyone else who gave up their time to help the Appeal.
No-one can accuse Atique Choudhury of lacking ambition. Atique, owner of Church Street’s
Yum Yum Thai restaurant for the last 12 years is about to open a 260-cover new restaurant on
the High Street in the listed, Georgian building at number 183-187. The project – costing
over £2 million – is a real vote of confidence in Stoke Newington.
The new restaurant will continue to concentrate on Thai cuisine. The interior will combine
contemporary architecture with classic Thai design, including a 50 foot-long, hand-carved
wooden bar imported from Thailand, an indoor pool and a Thai garden. The restaurant is
slated to open at the end of April and we’ll review it in our next issue. N16 congratulates Atique
on his initiative and hopes that the venture will attract people from across London. The spin-off trade
will be good for everyone.
Another new local business is Earlybird card and gift store opened on Church Street at the
end of last year. Earlybird stocks its own collection of greetings cards and wrapping paper. These
are designed and made on the premises by illustrator and cofounder Dominic Early. Dominic
and partner Heidi also source a huge range of cards from other leading-edge designers. They
also sell other products, such as risque magnets and retro chalk memo boards to tradesmen mugs,
Roger La Borde homeware and Cath Kidston gift bags.
Blink and they’ve gone. For every new business opening in the area, there are others closing.
First to go was Totem (see last issue) and then, in early January, The Eye closed abruptly, and will
be followed by Texture (see next page). Ironically, on the day of The Eye shutting down a review
appeared in TNT Magazine, praising the venue and stating ‘Go see The
Eye’. Ged, The Eye’s owner, is optimistic that he may be able to re-open in April, but as a night-time
venue only. Let’s hope so, as we’re running out of places to watch live
music in Stoke Newington. In the meanwhile, Ged has leased the upstairs room at The Eye for pilates
classes from the end of this month.
For more information phone 020 8815 5511.
Listeners to BBC Radio 4’s Open Book last month will have been
amused to hear Stoke Newington Library staff discuss items found in returned books. Apart from the
obvious – bookmarks – other items cited included travel cards, bacon rind, a razor blade, £150
rent money (safely returned) and a snapshot of a naked man in an
obvious state of excitement. Not returned, as the borrower could not
be identified – his head was cropped out of the picture.
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