You see them puffing behind their double buggies, up and down Church Street. You hear them gossip in groups at Clissold Park's One O'Clock club. But just who are Stoke Newington's super nannies? And what makes them tick? Sarah Dallas talks to Rosie Cooper, a long-term nanny in the neighbourhood.

Stoke Newington. Not so long ago, it was North London's bohemian haven, home to non-conformists and squatters, soap-dodgers and polltax protestors, offbeat artists and
right-on lesbians. But times change. Today, with the largest number of babies per capita anywhere in Britain, Stoke Newington is not so much dog-on-a-string as buggy-on-Thames. Welcome to N16 2005, where baby culture rules, buggy jams are the order of the day and nappy-wielding nannies are the new queens of Church Street.

Rosie Cooper, 36, is sipping a cappuccino at Fresh and Wild. She has worked as a nanny in Stoke Newington for 15 years. With two school-age sons of her own, Rosie, a sparkly-eyed, attractive woman, currently looks after two toddlers four days a week. 'I love being a nanny in this neighbourhood', she smiles. 'Everyone knows each other. You can't be anonymous, and that's a good thing for people looking after children.'

Rosie operates a 'nanny-share', a popular local option for those unable to employ a full-time nanny to care for just one child. Her days are spent feeding, chaperoning, and nappy-changing Frankie and Sebastien, two rambunctious 18-month-olds, both of whose parents live near Church Street. Like most nannies, her working day starts at 8.30am, when she arrives at the house of one of her employers, and it doesn't end until 6pm. She claims that looking after one child is 'a doddle. Two is more fun'. But isn't it exhausting? 'I love it', she grins. 'It feels so special to be part of someone's growing up, to help them develop and watch them change.'

Then there's the pay, which can be quite decent, though Rosie claims the recent influx of Eastern Europeans prepared to work for very little has introduced stiff competition into the market. A typical nanny will earn about £9 per hour for a sole charge (looking after one child); and £11 per hour for a nanny-share (two or more children). Stoke Newington's villagey atmosphere means that a social network can be built up quickly, with word-of-mouth job vacancies a bonus. 'I've got most of my jobs through contacts and neighbours', says Rosie. 'It makes things more personal than going through an agency.'

A nanny's week in N16 is never dull. Every day brings with it a different toddler group, drop-in play session or music class. A typical week for Rosie consists of visits to Clissold Park's One O'Clock Club; playgroups at St Mary's community centre; the Hippo club at St Augustine's Church in nearby Highbury; Stoke Newington Library's popular toddler reading group and daily jaunts around Clissold Park (see below).

Has the area changed much, from a nanny's perspective? 'It's changed a great deal', says Rosie. 'My clients used to be Green Partyvoting Birkenstock-wearers. It's more expensive to live here now, and more people are hiring live-in au pairs.' But she maintains that parents in Stoke Newington are still distinctive. 'Parents here don't tend to put their careers ?first. Lots of Stokey mums work part-time, because they want to spend time with their children. I like that. I once worked for a mother in Islington who was gone from 7am until 10pm at night. It didn't feel right.'

Not everything about Stoke Newington makes a nanny's life easy. 'There are lots of full-time earth mothers who breastfeed for years in this neighbourhood. These women have a problem with the very principle of nannies and carers. It goes against what they've opted for. So they're quick to criticise or step in if they think you're doing something wrong. Sometimes I have to tell them to mind their own business.' 

Can she spot a nanny from a mum in Clissold Park's crowded playground? Rosie laughs. 'Absolutely. If a woman looks sleep-deprived and slobbish, and is struggling with a screaming child, you can bet that she's a mum. Nannies tend to be smartly dressed and in control of the situation.'

How does she cope with a hollering toddler? 'You have to stay calm and simply walk away', says Rosie firmly. 'Do not get involved. They come round quite quickly once they realise you're not going to pander to them.' What's her verdict on the current 'baby bootcamp' approach, as advocated by bestselling author Gina Ford and Channel Four's own Supernanny, Jo Frost? 'You need to strike a balance', says Rosie. 'Children like to know who's in charge, but they also need lots of love and cuddles.' And with that, she scoops up her shopping, which includes two surprise presents for her lucky charges. 'I can't resist buying them the odd gift', she says. 'You do tend to fall in love with the children you look after.'

Nanny facts

How to find a nanny

Unlike childminders, there is no formal registration system for nannies, and many have no qualifications. That is why, says Rosie, word-of-mouth recommendations are often best. 'Parents should also look for someone who is basically cheerful and upbeat. After all, this is a person you're going to be seeing a lot of.' Basic paediatric firstaid should be high on the list of priorities.

Self-employed or agency?

Most Stokey nannies work independently, finding clients by recommendation.
An agency will charge a search fee, typically starting at the equivalent of one month's salary, though this is sometimes negotiable. Nanny Search, based in Highbury, offer a reliable service (tel: 020 8348-4111; www.nannysearch.co.uk).

What do they earn?

The starting salary can be £9 per hour for a sole charge (looking after one child); and
£11 per hour for a nannyshare (two or more children). But the rate varies, and may be higher if you go through an agency. Tax and national insurance should also be taken into account if you are hiring a nanny. Nanny Tax, based in Brighton, can help with this (tel: 0845 226 2203; www.nannytax.co.uk ).

Working hours

Most nannies work a punishing ten-hour day, with an early start-often from 8am. Nannies are also entitled to fully-paid, pro-rata holidays and all the usual public holidays. Many nannies also expect food and drink at the house in which they work.

Where they hang out

Clissold Park One O'Clock Club (Mondays); St Mary's Community Centre, Defoe Road (Tuesdays); toddler reading group at Stoke Newington Library, Church Street and the Hippo club at St Augustine's in Highbury (Wednesday); music group at Abney Hall (Thursdays); morning playgroup at the Catholic church on Bouverie Road (Fridays).