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Barracuda
125 Stoke Newington Church Street, Tel: 0171 923 7488
 Barracuda is a relatively new and very welcome addition to the Stoke Newington
restaurant scene. The style of food is loosely called Pacific Rim or fusion, and draws its
influences from all over South East Asia. Many of the chefs currently practising Pacific
Rim cooking in London do not seem to have the skill to combine the exotic ingredients of
the Pacific to any real effect. Some creations are just too bizarre to work as a distinct
cuisine. This is not the case at Barracuda, which seems to produce an effortless melange
of Thai, Malaysian and Vietnamese dishes. The menu presents that most exquisite of
problems in what to choose among the tantalising options. I was so impressed on my first
visit I returned for a second taster within the week.
We especially liked the starters of chicken parcels which were marinated chicken pieces
steamed in banana leaves served with a dipping sauce at £4.00. Butterfly prawns at £4.50
and grilled king prawns with roasted chilli salsa were excellent. The Thai fish cakes at
£4.50 were a delicious blend of fish, ginger, coriander and lime leaves.
The main courses impressed us even more. Mrs Mock, the head chef from Thailand, shows just
what a little inspiration, a lot of attention to detail and wonderfully fresh ingredients
can achieve. For example, Weeping Tiger at £9.50, is melt-in-the-mouth chargrilled
sirloin on spinach with roast chilli and garlic sauce served with potato wedges. Golden
Squids at £8.50 are tender baby squids stuffed with vegetables and chilli, served on
couscous. Vegetarian options include Red Curried Pumpkin with Chick Peas and Coconut Rice
at £7.50. There is a selection of main course salads and the highlight is the seafood
salad of prawns, squids and mussels in a piquant dressing at £7.50.
Desserts are rarely the high point in oriental restaurants, but Barracuda manages to offer
a light Thai custard made with coconut milk at £4.00, which could have done with some
fruit or ice cream on the side, but was pleasant nevertheless. On our first visit my
friend had an extraordinary tapioca pudding with sweet corn and beans in coconut milk at
£3.50 which he liked very much. Other choices are good ice creams and sorbets.
Barracuda has been very stylishly decorated with richly lacquered walls in deep soothing
colours and there is a merciful lack of ethnic bits and bobs. An added attraction in the
summer is a very pretty garden.
There is a grotto-like cellar bar, reminiscent of a 1960's Paris jazz bar where you can
hear live jazz on Friday and Saturday nights. Guest appearances have included Jacquie
Dankworth and Carol Grimes. The cellar can be hired for private parties. The charming
hosts are Fei and Teng Tung from Malaysia, who have had long experience in the restaurant
and jazz world. Service is 10 per cent included and it's well worth a visit.
Petit Coin
193 Stoke Newington Church Street, Tel: 0171 249 4344
Opening Hours: Monday to Friday 8.00 - 5.30
Saturday 10.00 - 5.30
Petit Coin is one of the latest and certainly the prettiest addition to Stoke Newington's
café society. Perched on the corner of Stoke Newington Church Street, opposite the old
Town Hall, Petit Coin looks very chic. One could easily believe that it has always been
there. Sandra and Mehmet Guntav opened this café in February. Although they had no
previous catering experience, they could teach most other caff owners a thing or two.
Top quality ingredients are used in all the soups and sandwiches. Homemade soup of the day
is £1.00 to take away. Sandwiches, filled ciabattas, baguettes and bagels start at
£1.20. All sandwiches and filled breads work on a 'build your own' basis from the huge
range of fillings made on the premises. The eggs are free range. Coffees (cappuccino,
latte and espresso) are full flavoured and among the best in Church Street.
The cakes and pastries are also top notch and range from tiny Portuguese flans, almond
Danish to large wedges of cheesecake and the best carrot cake I have ever tasted. Homemade
fresh fruit salad is a snip at £1.50.
Petit Coin is very busy at lunch time. It is a cool and airy café with friendly and
helpful staff. Babies and children welcome.
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