Alistair’s at the Daniel Defoe
By Jaqi Clayton
For many moons the Defoe did a pretty consistent line in pub grub: bangers and mash, pies of various kinds, steaks, burgers, and so forth.
Although not quite attaining the zenith of gastro-glory, it was all solid, dependable stuff. There followed a brief flirtation with a new menu or two featuring liberal use of rocket and pesto, but that episode has drawn to a close with the recent arrival of Alistair. Previously at Fischer’s in the Peak District and Pied-a-Terre in W1 – both highly acclaimed Michelin-starred establishments – Alistair has clearly brought with him the credentials and the expertise to make his mark on N16.
His menu is not un-pubby, neither is it over-ambitious. What it mainly offers is classic pub fare done extremely well, alongside a clutch of more innovative offerings. Choose from the thirteen dishes on the main menu (five of them vegetarian) or order a daily special from the selection chalked up on the blackboard. On this particular Wednesday evening we could have enjoyed, for example, beer-battered haddock; a take on Caesar salad comprising cornfed chicken, smoked bacon, egg and Parmesan; homemade tagliatelli with peperonata, specials of smoked haddock risotto with coriander and a poached egg, or a platter of cured meats to share. My guest decided on an 8oz steak burger with red onion jam, roasted peppers and hand cut chips. The burger, she said, was very good indeed. Understandably so, because it comes from a supplier in Smithfield whose beef is both British and traceable. My choice was roast rump of English lamb with caramelised shallots and gratin dauphinois (billed as ‘creamy garlic potatoes’), a marriage made in heaven, in my opinion. All of it was perfectly executed and delicious, with the lamb cooked pink as requested and a gorgeous jus that was perfect with the potatoes.
As local connoisseurs will know, the Defoe keeps its beers supremely well, but this food called for wine from the pleasingly varied list of ten whites, eight reds, three fizzes and a rosé (eleven of these available by the glass). We chose a Côtes du Rhone – Enclave des Papes – described as having warm cherry flavours, which indeed it did. What was not particularly warm, alas, was the communication between we two diners and the bar staff, who declined to take our order for a cheese selection at 9.35 pm because the kitchen had closed five minutes previously. Had my guest not been a well-known local character with a reputation for coming straight to the point, I dare say the argument would never have been made, but it was explained that if we had not been kept waiting an inexplicable hour for our main course the kitchen would still be open: and besides, no cooking would be involved! So our cheese duly arrived, and the selection was both attractively presented and thoughtfully complementary: Montgomery’s Cheddar, Bleu d’Auvergne, Sharpham Brie and Golden Cross goat’s cheese, presented with grapes, celery and slices of particularly delicious fruit bread. Definitely a winner and worth rather more than the £4.50 it cost. Other second courses on the blackboard included a novel chocolate and banana bread-and-butter pudding, and a hot chocolate pudding with rum and raisin ice cream.
The total expenditure was £36.35, which, considering £15.50 of that was on the wine, made the food seem rather good value given its quality, content and presentation.
As well as being able to dine in the Defoe’s attractive newly-decked garden (complete with elevated smoking platform), you will soon be able to reserve a table at front of house, due shortly to be turned into a dining area; and you may also like to attend a Friday ‘steak night’ featuring beef fillet, sirloin or rump for two. These are all good changes, and it may well be true to say that no-one will lament the passing either of the old pub style or menu one bit when food like Alistair’s is on offer.
The Daniel Defoe incorporating Alistair’s, 102 Stoke Newington Church Street, N16 0LA, 020 754 2906
Metolino
By Saskia Little-Brown
I’m whispering here: everyone who lives in the area already knows that, when it comes to Sunday Brunch, Stoke Newington High Street is unbeatable. We know – but we don’t want anyone else to know. Right? No pervy Evening Standard journalists dissing us – OK?
Purely in the interests of research, we swept from Torquil Towers recently to try out the Sunday breakfast offerings at Metolino. The choice was bewildering – and wonderfully cosmopolitan; English (full or selective); continental; vegan; and Mediterranean – all of which you could perm to your heart’s content. He Who Is a Creature of Habit and Obsessive Compulsive Disorder, went for his customary Full English Usual, which seemed disconcertingly large. A landscape of beans, mushrooms, sausage, chips (chips?), fried egg, grilled tomato, toast, bacon – and on and on. The works, in other words. It vanished. As did the glass of red wine that, confusingly, I was told was part of the normal ritual (although I’d opted for a good, industrial mug of tea).
As an altogether more discerning flaneur, I’d checked out the décor (the big coffee bean hanging from the ceiling did, I admit, defeat me momentarily), the painted plaster walls, the blown glass lighting fixtures (covetable), and the entire menu. Because, of course, I am not a creature of habit. I toyed with the Mediterranean breakfast (pan-fried garlic sausage, tomatoes, eggs, cheese, olives, fetta – more cheese? – salad and Turkish bread, for a gravity-defying £5.50, anyone?), but in the end, fell for a bespoke English, where you get to choose a four-item boutique brekkie of choice for a very reasonable £4: in my case, egg, sausage, bacon and wonderfully fresh grilled toms. None of your tinned rubbish here. And tea and toast.
If you’re Obeying Gordon (aren’t we all?) you’ll drink your freshly-pressed Metolino orange juice and note that Metolino also offers what looks like the best range of toasted sandwiches in Planet Stokey, a vast range of sweet and savoury pancakes, and the full monty of Turkish dinner staples. A café for all seasons – but especially good for Sunday brunch. And with lovely service. Don’t tell anyone.
Metolino, 162, Stoke Newington Road, N16, 020 7923 9200 |
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