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Newington Green

by Rab MacWilliam

  

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Sitting at the foot of busy Green Lanes and situated on the border of Hackney and Islington, Newington Green is an apparently nondescript staging post on the average commuter's journey home. However, the area is rich in history, and it is currently undergoing regeneration in an attempt to bring back the affluence and sophistication it once enjoyed.

These houses were built before the Great Fire of LondonNewington Green came into being in the 15th century as a hamlet hewn out of the huge Middlesex Forest and remained a predominantly rural area until the late 18th century. The early residents were wealthy, as was evidenced by the grand houses and hunting lodges owned by such grandees as Percy, Earl of Northumberland. Henry VIII had a hunting lodge here, as well as several rooms for his mistresses, and the corpulent Tudor monarch took his daily constitutional along the nearby King Henry's Walk. Also of architectural interest are the four houses at numbers 52-55, which were built before the Great Fire of London. This terrace is one of the oldest in London.

Attracted by the area's rural charm, relative seclusion and a sympathetic Lord of the Manor, the non-conformists arrived in the mid-17th century and established various 'academies' on the Green. Chief among these seats of dissenting learning was Charles Morton's Academy, which was attended by Samuel Wesley and Daniel Defoe and flourished between 1667 and 1696.

The Chapel copyright N16 WebWorks 2003

The Unitarian Chapel

The Unitarian Chapel was built in 1708 (the date is still clearly visible on the building to the north of the square) and enlarged in 1865. It is today the oldest non-conforming place of worship in London. The Reverend Dr Richard Price became minister in 1758. Price was a philosopher, mathematician and friend of Benjamin Franklin, Thomas Jefferson, David Hume and Tom Paine, and his writings in favour of the French and American Revolutions prompted a counter-attack from Edmund Burke in his Reflections on the Revolution in France. Intellectually lofty the area may have been, but baser instincts were also represented not too far away, principally at John Ball's entertainment house, which encouraged bull-baiting, drinking and general lechery, while the local duck hunters enjoyed their sport at the Ball's Pond. Footpads, cutpurses and assorted villains lay in wait between the villages, and care had to be taken when travelling along the path to Stoke Newington half a mile to the north.

Other notable residents of the Green were Mary Wollstonecraft, author of A Vindication of the Rights of Women and mother of Mary Shelley, the author of Frankenstein, who ran a girls' school with her sister Eliza from 1784 to 1786, and the poet Ann Letitia Barbauld. Andrew Rutherford, an eminent 19th-century researcher on microscopy and microorganisms, and the poet and banker Samuel Rogers were also local inhabitants and members of the Chapel.

By the mid-19th century, however, the surrounding farmland had been largely replaced by buildings and brickworks, and the charming haven of Newington Green was rapidly becoming part of inner London. Mildmay Park railway station was built in 1850 (and closed in the 1930s) and Canonbury Station was opened in 1870. Trams from the bustling Manor House depot came down Green Lanes, round the Green and transported the local clerks and office workers into the City. To serve the growing population, several public houses were opened. The Weaver's Arms (recently converted into Xanadu) was opened in 1827 with the Alma following in 1866.

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The China Inland Mission

The religious impulse in Newington Green, however, remained strong, and several Christian Missions, including the Mildmay and South Indian, were established in the mid-19th century. The China Inland Mission, on the west side of the Green, was founded in 1872 by missionary James Hudson Taylor, and was transformed into the Alliance Club in 1964. Schools were also being built in the area, with St Jude's Primary School opening in 1865 and Newington Green School shortly afterwards.

World War Two brought serious destruction to the area - with 22 people killed in a bomb attack on one house in Poet's Road - and there were mass evacuations to the safer countryside. After the War, new developments sprang up, and the social composition of the area underwent changes.

Since then, Newington Green has become more cosmopolitan and multi-ethnic, although physically the area has become an indistinguishable part of the inner city. However, its position between the increasingly wealthy Stoke Newington and Islington, and its proximity to Canonbury's bourgeois belt, is leading to a welcome upsurge in new businesses, shops and services in the area. The Peabody Trust flats/restaurant development on the junction with Albion Road is an indication of things to come. It is to be hoped that the latest planning initiatives succeed in re-creating the cultural and economic vibrancy of an historically significant part of London.

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