Putting to one side the question of Sainsburys proposed new mega plot, all the indications are that Stoke Newington High Street is in good health. The street has deep historical roots, following a road built by the Romans between 45 and 75 AD to link Bishopsgate and York, and which was named Ermine Street by the Saxons. No doubt there were then small inns and food suppliers along the route to service the needs of the haughty Roman legions as they tramped northwards to conquer the unruly Northern tribes. And retailers, probably different ones, of all descriptions continue to serve the needs of our little parish. The High Street is not the hub of dynamism that it was many years ago, but there appears to be signs of a rearguard action taking place on what was once one of the busiest shopping centres in North London.

Having been given organic approval by the relocation of the Farmers’ Market to St Paul’s Church (behind which the impressive space of West Hackney Recreation Ground is undergoing refurbishment, and not before time), the strip opposite the church and further down Stoke Newington Road until book-ended by the busy sports bar Yucatan on one side and Tulip travel agency on the other, seems to be doing good business. And north of the church doesn’t seem to be doing too badly either.

The complexity of the retailers and food outlets is fascinating. South of St Paul’s, you will find three fine Turkish restaurants – Solche, Metolino and Bar-ish – florists, a tailor, three estate agents, a long-serving carpet and linoleum shop, hair, bridal and beauty salons aimed mainly at the Kurdish market, the usual laundrettes and off-licences, a new Turkish organic food supermarket, a furniture outlet, Meto’s well-stocked art and stationery range, the quirky and original Ark gift shop, complementary medicine, a bicycle retailer and the ever-popular Best Turkish Kebab takeaway. This is before you get to the one-way system heading north.

With the exception of the forbidding blacked-out windows of the Lubyanka – the Old Bill HQ – and with the exception of Sainsburys and Tesco, both always busy, it should be added – the variety of outlets continues. The Bagel House takeaway, which has been at the corner of Evering Road for ages, never disappoints and, if you’re still hungry, there are several restaurants – such as Testi, Capital, Gohi, Mostra, Zaza and Gorki – as well as a number of cafes, including the increasingly trendy Z Bar and Bodrum.

Again, there is a profileration of Turkish beauty, hair and wedding shops – obviously catering to a market proud of its appearance – a travel agent, six estate agents, minicab offices, phone shops, a glass supplier and framer, newsagents, food markets and bakeries, internet cafes and a massive new second-hand furniture shop, recently opened. Also recently opened, is a shoe repair business (I’ve tried it, and proprietor Jamie provides a friendly, first-rate service), while across the road stands the venerable General Woodwork Supply. You want it, they’ve got it.

The Gallo Nero Italian deli is outstanding, Net Music is a must-visit for all musicians, with a wide selection of all things musical, and there is even a large shop selling everything local food outlets may need in the way of catering equipment. You’ll have to buy your toaster elsewhere. The White Hart, with its fine food and huge beer garden stands imposingly in the middle of the block. The Fishery has the best range of fish (obviously) for miles, and next door The Cookery butcher has an impressive selection of fresh meat. You can gauge the popularity of both establishments by the size of the queues outside.

And we haven’t reached Brooke Road yet. Further north, the street begins to be influenced by Church Street, and nothing wrong with that. The bars and restaurants are uniformly splendid, and shops like Rouge, selling everything Chinese, maintain and reflect the retail uniqueness of the High Street. But I feel that the somewhat rough and ready nature of the street becomes more sophisticated and polished the further north one travels. Moving into Church Street, with its range of restaurants, bars and boutique shops, this feeling is more marked. Stoke Newington desperately needs a vibrant Church Street, which is unique in many ways. And long may that continue.

The High Street, despite its increasing gentrification, represents a rather different aspect to Stoke Newington than does Church Street, and it’s pleasing we have such abundant choice in the parish.

By Rab MacWilliam

This article first appeared in the latest issue (number 48) of N16 Magazine.